Restaurant Review: Tipu Sultan

From the Jug of Ale to jugs of lassi, it’s hard to imagine a transformation more complete than the one that has taken place at the top of Park Road. The former bar and live music venue has been reborn as Tipu Sultan, home of Indian fine dining, and the differences are stark.
Firstly, and perhaps most bravely, Tipu Sultan is dry - there is no alcohol served and you cannot bring your own. Clearly aimed at the Muslim community, this is not the place to go for a late night beer-and-balti. As a result, there is a more serene atmosphere than your average curry house, and a drinks menu which boasts an impressive range of juices, lassis and tasty mocktails.

Secondly, the decor. The opulent splendour that greets you is a very far cry from the Jug’s dingy rooms and sticky floors. Stone lions guard the entrance to a waiting area lined with bejewelled sofas, beyond which is a vast dining area hung with glittering chandeliers, where smart, attentive waiters glide effortlessly amongst the ornate furniture. It is breathtakingly glamourous.

But it’s what’s on the plate, rather than on the wall, that is most important in a restaurant, and I’m pleased to say that the food at Tipu Sultan lives up to the expectations set by its surroundings. I was there with a party of ten, so between us we had the opportunity to try a wide range of starters, mains and side dishes. All of the dishes were good, and most were excellent, served in generous, but not overly large, portions. We were even pleasantly surprised when the bill arrived - most of us had had poppadoms, a starter, a main course and drinks, yet it all came to just £18 a head.

Is there a catch? Well, nowhere is perfect. The seats were a little too low for comfort. Some of the descriptions on the menu were intriguing (“Bombay Aloo: No description needed”) and the lack of alcohol took us by surprise. 

But these are small quibbles when compared to the overall experience. The Jug of Ale was a much loved Moseley landmark, and it was sad to see it go. However, Tipu Sultan has the potential to become a very different, but perhaps equally special, Moseley destination. If you’re looking for an evening out with a bit of extra sparkle, I would definitely recommend giving it a try.

(Published in 'Moseley B13' November 2013)

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